Category Archives: Hanoi

City of Excitement

When we first arrived in Hanoi, I was initially fascinated by the hectic nature of the city. Everywhere I looked, I saw a pack of mopeds, with anywhere from one to four people on the back. It is interesting to compare the street traffic to that of America because we are so used to cross walks and having the right of way as a pedestrian. Meanwhile, in Hanoi, we had to run across the street dodging the vehicles.

I was also intrigued by the amount of shops on the streets and how many people walked around trying to sell things to you, especially fruit. It added to the busyness of the city because everywhere you turned, something was going on. I remember our first time leaving the hotel, a man came up to one of the girls in my group and bent down to try to fix her shoe and get her to pay which took us by surprise because something like that would never happen in America.

Another thing I noticed about Hanoi was that at any hour of the day you would see people sitting on the streets on their little stools in groups of people eating and talking. It was odd to me at first because in America the only people we see sitting on the streets in cities are homeless people, besides that, everyone is just walking to get to where they need to be. Being in this city really made me appreciate the sidewalks in America. Here, you can barely walk on them as they are filled with parked mopeds, trees growing out of them and people sitting around. So because of this, we have done a lot of walking on the streets which then causes us to have to be very aware of our surroundings. It amazes me how I have not seen an accident yet because of how crazy the streets can get. I began to notice that the drivers don’t really pay attention to lanes and communicate much more with their horns. For example, they seem to be used more in an everyday and friendly manner than in America.

I have noticed that wherever we walk, the locals will stare at us which makes me think that it is rare for them to see people of other ethnicities. This is interesting to me because America is known as a melting pot, so if we were to see someone who was from another country, we wouldn’t even think twice about it where as here they stop us and ask where we are from and seem almost stunned to see us walking around.

However after being in the city for almost a week, I am starting to feel more adjusted to the different style of life in Hanoi and have truly been able to appreciate the beauty and excitement that it has to offer.

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The price of a dollar

One of the most profound things to me in Vietnamese society is the drive people have to work. In the United States many people are complacent with collecting welfare and living off the system. I would never encounter workers doing the things that certain Vietnamese do to make money. This topic struck my interest on our third day in Vietnam. It was raining and I left the hotel looking for something to eat. About a block away from the hotel, a woman was squatting next to a tiny cooker under an umbrella. She was cooking egg to put in a baguette sandwich for a little boy. I walked by this without the intention of having a sandwich for dinner, but the thought of this lady under an umbrella over her tiny cooker in the rain brought a change of heart. I could not walk past this without supporting a woman working in a condition as that, just to make 20,000 dong for a sandwich. The closest I could relate this to would be people in the United States selling water bottles for a dollar, which requires no labor on their part to produce. Seeing a lady huddle under an umbrella selling these sandwiches for less than a dollar in the rain struck me. I stopped and asked for a sandwich, not because I was hungry, but because I had so much respect for someone willing to work as she did just to make 20,000 dong. The sandwich ended up being very tasty but I wouldn’t have cared if it tasted terrible, I was just happy to support someone working as hard as her. I have the utmost respect for those willing to do whatever it takes to support themselves and their families. This drive to work for ever dollar is evident in Vietnamese society and I can’t admire that aspect of their culture enough.

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The Vietnamese are Over the American War

As soon as we arrived in Hanoi, I knew I was in for an adventure. The city is both vibrant and unique, with people hustling down the street on motor bikes or selling to pedestrians from their shops. What has struck me most  has been the respect of the Vietnamese towards american tourists. I have noticed that all of our interactions with locals and businesspeople have been positive. They are excited to talk to us and teach us about their country, and they thrive off of their interactions with us.

I first noticed the excitement towards Americans when we went to our first restaurant. The waitress was curious about where we were from and told us stories she had about other Americans she met. I thought it was really interesting that she felt the need to even share that she new other Americans, and that is when I began to pay attention to the attitude towards tourists.
A similar experience occurred when we went to the Bai Dinh temples. We were able to sit on a balcony that was nestled within the side of a mountain and listen to a local musician play his instrument. When I walked onto the balcony, immediately the local men were shouting “America! Washington DC! New York!” I thought it was cool that they were excited to know where we came from. They were also excited to show us their talents and teach us about Vietnam. The musician taught us about his Vietnamese violin, cello, and flute, and then he played songs for us. He was so happy that we all enjoyed his performance and as a result he kept playing. The entire experience was surreal.
I think it is amazing how the people of Vietnam have gained a respect and interest in Americans since the war. I wasn’t sure how they would feel about us based on the fact that in other countries I have been too, especially in Europe, people are not happy to see Americans. Here, they are not only happy, they are interested. They want to know about us and they want to tell us about their country. It is obvious that they are over the war, and I have a lot of respect for both the people of Vietnam and the country itself.
Aside from that, I have found myself completely overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of the country. Everywhere I go I am constantly shocked at how gorgeous the scenery is, despite the cloudy weather. While I have a lot of traveling under my belt, I have never seen a country so beautiful and so charming. After just a week, Vietnam has stolen my heart.




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Safety First… Or so I Thought

When we left the United States, I had little to no idea of what to expect when we landed. Based on previous experience, I have found that one of the easiest ways to learn about a new environment is to take a few minutes and people-watch. One thing became immediately clear upon our arrival in Hanoi; safety is not a priority for the people living here. The city is very densely populated and when there are thousands of people walking through the streets, speeding around on mopeds, and spending their days sitting near the roads in front of shops, I would assume that most people would take some sort of safety measures. Instead, I saw moped drivers without helmets with their babies and their dogs riding casually with them, cars ignoring all traffic lanes and lights and parking on sidewalks, and children and adults running through the streets without looking at oncoming traffic. Crossing the street here is like playing “Frogger”, and our group is slowly learning to dodge the oncoming traffic and basically run across the street while exploring. Definitely not actions that would get the seal of approval from Mom.

At first this lack of safety astounded me, but after talking to our guide, Vo, and observing the natives further, I have realized that safety simply isn’t a priority. People here are so focused on doing what they need to do to make money and survive that safety is not even a thought. Instead of spending money on helmets, the money could be better spent on food or investments to grow business. Instead of looking both ways before crossing the street, people are more inclined to rush to where they are going and ignore the cars and mopeds flying at them. In reality, there is a long list of things more important to those living in Hanoi than safety. In the past decade or so, laws have even been created to ensure certain safeties such as wearing a helmet on a moped, but these laws have not been enforced. It seems that people have simply ignored these efforts and are continuing to do as they please, regardless of what the government is trying to accomplish.

As we continue on our adventure through Vietnam, I am extremely interested to see if there is a difference in safety measures between different areas. Is it possible that the slower lifestyle in rural developments can allow for more time to be careful? I guess I will find out soon!

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Hanoi Stock Exchange

On the Friday afternoon of our visit to Hanoi, we visited the Hanoi Stock Exchange (HNX). The fact that Vietnam has a stock exchange – in fact, two of them – might come as a surprise to Americans who still think of Vietnam as a communist, centrally managed economy. As a “socialist market-driven economy,” however, it has several of the manifestations of capitalist economies, including the opportunity to invest in companies at least partially owned by individual investors.

Here we are at the exchange:

Hanoi Stock Exchange

Pham Tran Nhu Nga, director of the exchange’s public relations department, (ninth from the right) introduced us to the stock exchange. It was fascinating to hear her talk about the origin of the exchange (2005) and its performance over the past ten years. Over that time, the number of companies on the exchange has grown to 377 (as compared to tens of thousands in the U.S.), and the combined market value of the companies has, not surprisingly, increased and declined over the years. The year 2012 saw a sharp decline in the index due to a financial crisis in Vietnam; it has since recovered most of what it had lost.

After hearing Ms. Pham’s presentation, several students commented on how similar the HNX seems to be to the U.S. exchanges. With the exception of the number of public companies (and therefore the volume of shares traded), the operations and structure of the HNX seem to mirror those of the U.S. exchanges.

Ms. Pham answered our many questions, ranging from “Who invests” to the legal and regulatory environment of the exchange to promotional efforts to educate the Vietnamese public on investing – what it is, how it occurs, why it occurs, and of course the risks and rewards that accompany investing.

After our visit to the Hanoi Exchange, I will be paying closer attention to it. In the West, stock markets serve as a proxy for the health of the economy (although not always accurately, due to human emotion!) It will be interesting to see how the HNX fares over the coming years, and how/whether it, too, serves as a proxy for the Vietnamese economy.

By the way, the other exchange is in Ho Chi Minh City. Maybe next year’s students will visit that exchange as well as the Hanoi exchange.

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Mayhem in the Streets of Hanoi

Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam and the country’s second largest city. Along with my peers and two faculty/staff, we, as a part of Elon University’s study abroad program, in collaboration with CET Academic Programs, have spent the last five days in one of the most beautiful cities in Vietnam. After just returning from the world famous Halong Bay, it is safe to say that my fellow Elon students and I have been blessed with a once in a lifetime opportunity.

Upon arrival in Vietnam, we had the opportunity to explore the Old Quarter of Hanoi for a couple of hours before taking an actual tour of the central Hanoi area with our Vietnamese guide, Vu. One of the first observations that I made, which has stuck with me throughout the duration of our trip thus far, was the absolute mayhem in the streets of the city. With a population of roughly 6.5 million people, I would argue that the city of Hanoi is populated with more motorbikes than people. When you walk on what would typically be known as a sidewalk, you are immediately struck by the fact that sidewalks are also used for the purpose of a parking garage. There are motorbikes everywhere. From being parked on the sidewalks to cluttering the streets, I have never witnessed such chaos. I am not exaggerating when I say that I fear for my life each and every time that I cross the street in Hanoi. It appears that there is no rule of law. When you walk the streets of the city, you will notice traffic lights; however, a red light does not necessarily mean that motorists are going to stop. You are forced to keep your head on a swivel if you don’t want to be road kill. The Vietnamese traveling via motorbike, although it may appear extremely unsafe and extremely chaotic, are quite talented, to say the least, at dodging bodies and other motorists. I can say with ease that I will and would never ride a motorbike in the city of Hanoi. From the looks of things, without practice and familiarity with the city, it is a sure deathtrap to be riding a motorbike in Hanoi. The craziest part is that the Vietnamese appear so accustomed to what looks to be madness. Just a part of the everyday life here in the city I guess. For example, as we were walking taking in all that is around us, from the street vendors to the stray dogs, and from the thousands of motorists to the hundreds of shops, we saw two city workers walk out into the street (right in the middle of all of the mayhem). One of the Vietnamese men was carrying a bamboo ladder while the other was carrying a small traffic sign. The one worker placed the sign in the middle of the road while the other set up the ladder to be able to reach the electrical wires hanging in the middle of the intersection (see pictures attached). Without even thinking, the one man held the ladder while the other began to climb in order to take care of the problem with the wires. It was amazing the lack of fear that these two men had standing in the middle of an extremely busy intersection while taking care of the electrical problem. It was a sight to see that’s for sure.

Regardless of the mayhem that one witnesses upon walking the streets of Hanoi, the city itself is incredible. It is a place like no other and a place that I cannot compare to anywhere else that I have traveled. The Vietnamese people are so accustomed to their everyday life, as would be expected, but the lack of regard for safety throws me for a loop each and every time I step out of the hotel. We will see what else Vietnam has in store for my fellow peers and I as we travel to our next destination, Hoi An in central Vietnam.

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The Vision of Economic Disparity

Coming to Vietnam I had a lot of expectations, mostly revolving around what I would see and eat, none focused on how I would feel or how I would react to certain situations.  After being here for a handful of days, I feel that I need to reevaluate how I experience new things. The Vietnamese have a very strong culture that they are eager to share with outsiders, but I find it hard to not see this culture with a judgmental eye. Analyzing this culture as something different rather then wrong is a difficult task that I am currently trying to master.

When I learned about the wages that the average factory workers makes, I was surprised! The average factory worker is paid on a monthly basis. Currently, workers make approximately $250 a month.This is equal to about $1 an hour.  These workers work eight hours a day and normally seven days a week in highly labor intensive jobs.

As a communist nation, Vietnam does not have a set minimum wage like the one used in America. According to our guide, Vietnam does regulate and set a wage guide for office workers within some positions, but not factory workers. As an American, I see our minimum wage working mostly in favor of our lower class, not our middle working class. This has made me question, why does Vietnam regulate the wages of their middle class (office workers) and not their lower class (factory workers)? Does the government not want the lower class to have the opportunity to develop into the middle class? Does Vietnam have their own version of the “American Dream”? Or is ones placement within the class system merely decided for them?

I also think that this can be linked to the lack of growth and prosperity seen within the nation. There is no drive or incentive for these people to achieve or do more. In theory, communism sounds like it could work very effectively.  In practice, it does not. It prevents people from pushing themselves and gaining a greater incentive.

So now I pose this question that i have been pondering to you all, how does Vietnam grow and further exceed these current shortcomings in order to develop and stabilize their economy?

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Good Morning Vietnam

Having travelled a lot growing up, I have never been too worried about being able to adapt to the culture of a new country. That being said, I can easily say that Vietnam is the most “different” country that I have ever visited. This is my first taste of this side of the world and it is clear to see that they have a completely different way of living. Their fundamental human rights would make most people in the western hemisphere cringe. The moment that struck me the most thus far occurred on our walk back from the Hanoi Stock Exchange at 4pm about 2 blocks from our hotel. Since being here, it is clear to see that the side of the street is a place for many vendors to set up shop and make a living. It is the norm and many of us have either bought some street food or maybe even a souvenir from a street vendor. It was therefore very shocking to see every vendor scatter as police made their way through the streets of Hanoi. The authorities over loudspeaker demanded that all vendors disperse and stop partaking in illegal activity. It was absurd to see that people’s daily lives and jobs were actually not allowed but that they continued to do it despite that. After observing the street more closely it was evident that the vendors had a clear plan to avoid the law enforcement. It was also clear to see that while the law enforcement were telling them to move that it was not a strictly enforced law (as most laws seem to be in Vietnam). The government could easily clean up the streets by sending the police around twice a day but choose to send them way less often. My questions is why? Luckily our Program Coordinator explained it perfectly by saying that Vietnam is behind the western hemisphere by about 20 years and that it is very hard for the older generations to adapt to the new way of living. Therefore the authorities realize that it is their way of living and are taking remedial action to get this “problem” fixed. They want people to realize that it is not right that others are paying rent and you are invading their space but that it is impossible for them to expect everyone to go jobless in a day. It was really a shocking experience and something unlike anything I had seen before. It was an experience that really showed the character of a lot of the Vietnamese people I had encountered and the struggle of people to find jobs in the current economy. I appreciate that while the government wants to do everything in its power to better Vietnam economically and socially, they realize that it is a process and will take some time to get everyone on board. It was definitely an eye opener and I cannot wait to see what else this study abroad program has in store for me.

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The Vietnamese People at First Glance

Our first week in Vietnam has certainly opened my eyes to a completely different world than I have ever experienced, or thought I would experience in my lifetime. Although I have been out of the United States before, the people, landscapes, culture, and food here are truly unique. Our experience so far has also been very unique in the sense that our 3 destinations have been polar opposites in terms of the physical landscapes. The bustling and crowded city of Hanoi lies in stark contrast to the peaceful mountainous region, which lies in stark contrast to the stunningly beautiful, moderately commercialized Halong Bay.
The only constant throughout our travels have been the vivacious, hard working, Vietnamese people. Since the moment I arrived in Vietnam, the sheer will to make a living that can be seen no matter where you go here has truly amazed me. In Hanoi, you cant walk more than ten feet without someone offering to sell you a lighter or shine your shoes and they are truly relentless in there attempt to make a sale. These men and women in Hanoi work around the countless families who have set up shop in store fronts and mobile stations in which you can find nearly anything, from food to stereos. In the mountainous regions we passed dozens of merchants that would be lucky to see five customers a day, yet they patiently waited for there opportunity to make a sale. In Halong Bay, I stepped out of the shower this morning and found an elderly woman on a small boat attempting to sell me water through the window of my room. Many of these Vietnamese people had one major thing in common. They appeared to be genuinely happy, and simply enjoying their life and the fact that they had an opportunity to make a living. Throughout Vietnam, these merchants can most often be seen smiling, enjoying the company of friends and family, eagerly awaiting the opportunity to make a sale, or even just practice their English in conversation.
What struck me most about this is that I feel a lot of the times, I find myself asking the wrong questions. Questions such as, why isn’t Hanoi more modern? Why do a lot of the Vietnamese people settle for barely getting by? Why aren’t they taking advantageous of potential tourists through commercialization and modernization? What I have come to realize is that maybe the Vietnamese people don’t feel the need to change right away. Many of them are happy just like they are, whether that be selling goods or services on the street or leading tourist expeditions. It has made me truly realize that material goods and money are undeniably not the only way to achieve happiness. When you walk down the streets of Hanoi, you see the Vietnamese people enjoying each other’s company, laughing and talking with emotion and happiness. When you walk down Wall Street in New York City, where many of the people have an infinite amount of money relative to the Vietnamese, you see emotionless faces, people that appear to be more stressed out than happy about life. If you had asked me which of these groups of people is better off two weeks ago, I would have certainly said the latter, however, Vietnam has altered my mindset, and now I am honestly not sure.

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Put Yourself In Their Shoes

Going into Vietnam I had no idea what to expect. The most diverse place I had ever been was Paris and let’s be honest Paris isn’t that much of a wake up call but Vietnam definitely is.

From the moment I stepped off the plane I could tell I wasn’t in America. I was surrounded by strangers all speaking another language and staring at me as if I were a zoo exhibit; it was a bit overwhelming to say the least. I remember lying in my bed feeling confused, anxious and exhausted, thinking what did I just get myself into.

The next morning I went down to breakfast and naively expected there to be my usual breakfast food (oatmeal); I was surely disappointed.  Instead I was presented with chicken fried rice and dumpling soup. Call me crazy but I am not trying to eat rice and soup at 7AM but the vietnamese people don’t see anything wrong with it.

Later that evening we went exploring through Hanoi. The city was beautiful. All the streets were lit up by the local stores and the vietnamese people were sitting on the curbs laughing and eating. It was already such a different culture from what I was used to and I was loving it until reality started to set in.

Everything in Vietnam is so cheap. I bought an hour long, full body massage for 6 US dollars and purchased a full meal for under 5 US dollars. From my perspective I was loving how cheap everything was but once I looked at it through the perspective of the Vietnamese I had an entirely different reaction.

This poor woman had just spent an hour giving me an incredible massage that I probably would have spent 100 dollars on in the U.S and all she got from it was 6 bucks. How was that fair? She’s doing exactly the same amount of work for less than one tenth of what Americans are paid. From there I just started seeing this corruption more and more.

We visited a pottery village and saw men and woman working in awful conditions slaving over a simple bowl making sure every inch of it was perfect. Then, at the end of our tour we found out that bowl that they had probably spent countless hours crafting was only equivalent to 3 US dollars.

These experiences really served as a wake up call to me and reminded me of how lucky I am to have been given an incredible education and to have grown up in a developed and stable environment. After witnessing these miserable conditions my friends and I decided to put ourselves in their shoes. Instead of swiping our credit cards and buying a scarf we decided to make our own. We bought the fabric and were taught with a needle and thread how to make various knots through out the fabric to get our desired design. An hour later we had all completed the special knots in the fabric and were ready to call it quits. Our backs hurt, our fingers were red and sore and we were just kinda over it but our scarfs were not close to being complete so we had to keep going. We were then brought up stairs to a mini factory where deaf and mute workers were all stationed at a sewing machine with the biggest smiles on their faces. In that moment I hated myself. I was sitting their complaining while these disabled workers were so happy and grateful to just have a job and be working. Another hour went by as we crouched over and dipped our fabric into the dye. Finally a short while after, our scarfs were complete. I was in awe. The scarfs came out prettier than we had ever expected and the fact that we created them on our own made them even more beautiful.

After that experience and after taking in everything that I have seen thus far I am so much more appreciative for every piece of clothing and product that I own. To know that someone has spent multiple hours constructing and designing the shirt that I am now wearing is an incredible thing that I will now never take for granted.

Everyone said that Vietnam was going to be an eye opening experience but I never really understood what that meant until now. It is only day 5 and I am already seeing and experiencing things way beyond my expectations. I can not wait to continue to explore Vietnam and discover what other amazing things this country has to offer.

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