A Tale of Two Cities

After arriving at the Hanoi airport around midnight on Monday, I immediately got on a bus and headed for the hotel. As I looked out the window, the city was dead. Very few people walked the streets, and most of the lights were off in the city. What would Hanoi be like? Would it always be this boring?
The Energetic Hanoi
Out of nowhere, the city awakened in the morning. It seemed like Hanoi was a completely different city. During the day, just crossing the street is a difficult task because there are so many motorbikes and cars on the street, and they stop for nothing. The sidewalks are crowded with locals eating pho and other Vietnamese dishes on little plastic stools. In addition to the crowds, it seems like every local is trying to sell me something, whether it’s a lighter, fake brand-name wallet, or exotic fruit. The city is full of energy until the sun (which I cannot see because of all the pollution) sets. Then, the less lively Hanoi comes out.
A Glimpse into the Ghost Town
While walking around on Hanoi on a food tour today, the tour guide gave me several clues as to why the city is not near as lively at night. The guide was describing the average day for a restaurant owner in Hanoi. She said that the owners must get to their restaurants at five in the moring, and they do not leave until 11 at night. I am sure many other locals have similar working hours. With so little free time, there is no time for the locals to enjoy the nightlife Hanoi has to offer. Furthermore, the tour guide was telling us that if women drank and smoke, they were looked upon in Vietnamese culture as unsuitable to wed. Such cultural stigmas discourage a lively nightlife in Hanoi. Factors like these cultural stigmas perpetuate a tale of two cities- the lively and bustling Hanoi of daytime and the more quiet and tame Hanoi of night.

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