“Food is Food”: A Bonding Experience by Alex Feldman

Food. Is there a more appealing topic to discuss? I know a lot of us were nervous at first. I would argue every one of us was thinking “Africa?! What the heck are we going to eat”!? I can now honestly say that not a single one of us has been disappointed by what South Africa has to offer in this department.

Our first experience with the distinctive foods of South Africa was at a restaurant on the famous Long Street called Mama Africa. Upon arrival, people could hardly speak out of starvation from our trying day up Table Mountain. While some of us played it safe, many people were ready to dive into trying new things. Out of a table of 15 of us, about 8 people tried the Gator Kebabs, while many others tried some of the freshly caught fish options of the day.

One of the things I noticed about this meal was the initial hesitation about the menu. People were seeing new and different things and seemed to be nervous they weren’t going to be satisfied. While we were waiting for our meal, live music started to play in the corner right next to us! The group was called Abakhaya. The music was infectious. It was unlike anything I have ever heard; it had a reggae feel, but was one of a kind – marimba. The singer of the group didn’t start for about 15 minutes but when he opened his mouth, his talent and energy mesmerized us all. There was something about the music that opened us up to South Africa, and each other. Almost immediately, conversation picked up and we started to get to know each other better while laughing and participating in the music around us (everyone was very excited to hear some renditions of Bob Marley songs and the classic “Somewhere Over the Rainbow”).

By the time our food arrived, we had loosened up. Almost instantly, food was moving around the table, bite size plates were being passed. We were all trying gator kebabs, spinach and cheese empanadas and fresh fish. Somehow during this meal, it was like we had become a family.

For us, the most important element of the food we have discovered since coming here isn’t just about what’s on our plates. We have been fortunate enough to have people willing to explain not only the ingredients and preparation of our meals, but the origins and culture from which they derive.

One of everyone’s favorite meals was our lunch in the township of Langa. The restaurant was called Lelapa, meaning “the home”. The restaurant was one of the small homes built in the township of Langa after all black people were forced to move from Ndabeni in 1927. Sheila, the owner and creator of Lelapa, has been slowly turning her home into this restaurant for decades.   Lelapa is now known throughout South Africa and all over the world.

Sheila sat us down and told us about the culture that surrounds her food. She explained that in Western culture, and in fact most cultures, food is centered around time. For example, in the morning we have breakfast. In her language, Xhosa (pronounced Cosa with a clicky noise at the front) there are no words that express times of day, no way to say “good morning” and no way to ask “what would you like for dinner”. She explained, “Food is food, no matter the time of day”.  

After listening to her discuss the Xhosa language and culture, we learned about the foods we were about to enjoy. This was definitely one of our more adventurous and diverse meals! She served (buffet style): corn membrane, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, ostrich stroganoff, creamed spinach, fried chicken, curry rice, cabbage, cooked carrots and beef goulash (and that is just to name a few!).

 The shared experience of trying new foods and eating so frequently as a group has brought us closer to each other and closer to South Africa, its history, and its people. Even when we are given time to go off and have meals on our own, it is unlikely. We love being together have learned to order many items on the menu, and share with each other. 

A distinct difference I have noticed during meals here in South Africa, versus at home in the states in the absence of technology. Books of etiquette on how to properly set a table should now include a proper place for your blackberry! It is true that most of us don’t have our phones with us, so the temptation is gone, but many of us have commented on how nice it has been to immerse in conversation throughout the entire meal. Small pauses or breaks in conversation are now filled with a funny story instead of immediate typing noises under the table. A conversation that leads to someone’s name on the tip of your tongue or a movie you just can’t seem to remember leads to laughter and frustration, running around trying to find someone who knows the answer, as opposed to a quick Google search.

I have heard many people discussing how close we have become as a group. I think a huge part of this has been because of the meals we have shared together. In less than two weeks, a lot of us feel like the people we are with know us better than people we have known for years. We have been experiencing so many new things since coming to South Africa, and sharing our stories, laughing and reliving our favorite moments together has become our group’s own family tradition.