The Beaches of Normandy: Day One

Today was an emotionally-packed day. After our nighttime bus ride last night from Paris to Bayeux in the western Normandy region of France, we needed a good night’s rest. That we got from the Hotel Le Bayeux, and after breakfast we set off for the Atlantic Ocean.

On June 6, 1944, known as D-Day to many, Allied forces launched the largest ever amphibious invasion, coming ashore over 50 miles of beaches in five different sectors. The different sectors were codenamed Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword. The British invaded Gold and Sword beaches, the Canadians captured Juno Beach, and the Americans landed at Utah and Omaha beaches.

To start today’s adventure we took a private bus to Gold Beach and saw some of the concrete barriers that were erected in the sea around half a mile from the beach to break the strength of the incoming waves and prevent supply ships from being sunk after D-Day; the largest of the barriers was about seven stories tall. Then we visited some of the German defense fortifications, specifically a group of four positions spread about a hundred yards apart, each armed with a large gun that could fire shells with a diameter of about six inches with an effective range of 18 miles; each gun needed 12 men to man them – an experienced crew could fire two to three rounds per minute, though the German 716th division which was guarding the area was not a battle-hardened unit and thus was slower.

After that we travelled to Omaha Beach, the site of the heaviest casualties of the invasion, with around 5,000 Americans killed. Landing crafts were sent in which released their soldiers who then slogged through neck-high water to reach the beachhead, though many were killed before reaching the sand because there was a German pillbox built in the cliff directly overlooking the landing area, and the soldiers, wading through water with 70 lb. backpacks were sitting ducks for the experienced German snipers.

That fateful morning in June 1944, when the invasion was imminent, survivors from both sides said the silence became very heavy, and many soldiers started praying or looking at mementos of home just minutes before the onslaught began.

Solemnly walking over Omaha Beach, I was struck by the oppressive silence hanging like a specter over the area. I imagined what it must have been like for an American soldier to be cocooned inside a landing craft, sailing across the English Channel waiting for the order to dismount. Likewise, I imagined what it must have been like for an average German soldier to suddenly realize that the Allies are about to launch a massive invasion force, and wonder what will become of his Fatherland’s empire. I looked for an answer as to why such a slaughter had to occur on this long, windswept patch of sand. But all I heard in response was the cry of seagulls and the crashing of waves on the beach.

Later we went to the Normandy American Cemetery, which overlooks a different patch of Omaha Beach. There were rows and rows of perfectly aligned crosses with a few Stars of David mixed in; it was difficult to fully comprehend all the lives lost. There are the remains of 9,387 American soldiers there along with a memorial commemorating those missing in action. However, the most poignant part of the cemetery is the view from the middle, looking out to the sea. From there, one can see that the ground level gently slopes downwards, beckoning towards Omaha Beach below. This is to symbolize the American soldiers, rising from the sea to the beach to the level ground, and the whole scene gives off an eerie aura of incredible, unfathomable bravery. Looking out towards Omaha Beach, I briefly paused, and thought about the American soldiers, rising from the beach just as the graves seem to rise from the cliff overlooking the beach. Standing there, I somberly thought about those men who paid for freedom with their lives. It was a moment I will not soon forget.

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