World War II: Life in a Time of War

Today was our final full day in Europe, and it was very fitting that it was another day packed to the gills with history.

To start off, we visited two different positions on the outskirts of Pointe du Hoc, a French village perched on the sea in the western region of Normandy. Pointe du Hoc overlooks Utah Beach, the second of two invasions sectors manned by the Americans on June 6, 1944.

The first place we saw had huge craters in the ground, at least 20 feet in diameter and seven or eight feet deep from Allied bombing raids leading up to the June invasion. However, only one of the heavy artillery positions was severely damaged, and the rest had to be cleared by the invading soldiers. This was complicated by the fact that each of the bunkers had

The second site was a windswept peninsula overlooking the sea, where the American 2nd Ranger Battalion was instructed to knock out the powerful German cannons stationed there. On D-Day, the commander, Lt. Colonel James Rudder was told to tell the naval protection the first part of the mission was successful once his entire unit had scale the hundred-foot high cliffs. If Rudder did not call by 7:30 am, that would mean he was facing stiff resistance, and the accompanying ships would start bombarding the German fortifications. The Rangers came under withering fire by the German defenses, and the last man only reached the top of the cliffs a few minutes after 7:30 am, so the American soldiers then had to contend with heavy naval shelling along with enemy fire. After an intense battle, the Rangers captured the bunkers, often by sending in flamethrowers to charr the snipers who hid in deep inside the multi-room bunkers. The mission was complicated by the fact that each bunker had escape tunnels to deal with, and the Americans ran low on ammunition by midday. They asked for more ammunition, but their supply boat sank on a sea mine. Thus they resorted to using German weapons taken from dead German soldiers, but then when American reinforcements came two days later, the reinforcements heard the signature sound of German weaponry and fired on the Rangers before realizing they were American. Only 40% of the Rangers survived the two days.

Later we walked down on Utah Beach, on the site where former president Theodore Roosevelt’s son, Theodore Roosevelt Jr., commanded the invasion force. The landing crafts carrying his soldiers were pushed off course by the unusually strong ocean currents in the immediate area, and they landed about a mile south of the intended landing sector but this was a stroke of very good luck. The intended sector was chosen for having four outlet roads to the Normandy countryside, but it was in turn guarded by 20 German bunkers; the actual landing sector only had one outlet road but was guarded by only five bunkers, which did not put up much resistance. The result was that Utah Beach suffered only 12 casualties during the landing, easily the least number of casualties between the five beaches. Unfortunately, over 150 soldiers, weighed down by packs exceeding 70 lbs., drowned in the surrounding artificial swamps created by German war mastermind Erwin Rommel; it is ironic that far more men were killed by the swamps than by the German defenses.

Lastly, we visited the town of Sainte-Mere-Eglise where American paratroopers were dropped around 1:40 am, June 6, to secure the town and its strategic road to the Utah and Omaha Beaches. Allied bombing had just set fire to one of the town’s houses when the paratroopers were descending, illuminating them against the black night and making them easy targets for the German soldiers defending the town. Those who survived long enough to land met surprisingly little resistance that night while capturing the town but had to withstand determined German counterattacks once daylight arrived before being reinforced by tanks the next day, June 7.

And with that our delightful history trip comes to a close. It’s been an wonderful month, each day filled with novel adventure. From proud Germany to playful Czech Republic, then back to Germany and on to picturesque France, this trip has been the most amazing experience of my life – one I will never ever forget.

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Today was an emotionally-packed day. After our nighttime bus ride last night from Paris to Bayeux in the western Normandy region of France, we needed a good night’s rest. That we got from the Hotel Le Bayeux, and after breakfast we set off for the Atlantic Ocean.

On June 6, 1944, known as D-Day to many, Allied forces launched the largest ever amphibious invasion, coming ashore over 50 miles of beaches in five different sectors. The different sectors were codenamed Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword. The British invaded Gold and Sword beaches, the Canadians captured Juno Beach, and the Americans landed at Utah and Omaha beaches.

To start today’s adventure we took a private bus to Gold Beach and saw some of the concrete barriers that were erected in the sea around half a mile from the beach to break the strength of the incoming waves and prevent supply ships from being sunk after D-Day; the largest of the barriers was about seven stories tall. Then we visited some of the German defense fortifications, specifically a group of four positions spread about a hundred yards apart, each armed with a large gun that could fire shells with a diameter of about six inches with an effective range of 18 miles; each gun needed 12 men to man them – an experienced crew could fire two to three rounds per minute, though the German 716th division which was guarding the area was not a battle-hardened unit and thus was slower.

After that we travelled to Omaha Beach, the site of the heaviest casualties of the invasion, with around 5,000 Americans killed. Landing crafts were sent in which released their soldiers who then slogged through neck-high water to reach the beachhead, though many were killed before reaching the sand because there was a German pillbox built in the cliff directly overlooking the landing area, and the soldiers, wading through water with 70 lb. backpacks were sitting ducks for the experienced German snipers.

That fateful morning in June 1944, when the invasion was imminent, survivors from both sides said the silence became very heavy, and many soldiers started praying or looking at mementos of home just minutes before the onslaught began.

Solemnly walking over Omaha Beach, I was struck by the oppressive silence hanging like a specter over the area. I imagined what it must have been like for an American soldier to be cocooned inside a landing craft, sailing across the English Channel waiting for the order to dismount. Likewise, I imagined what it must have been like for an average German soldier to suddenly realize that the Allies are about to launch a massive invasion force, and wonder what will become of his Fatherland’s empire. I looked for an answer as to why such a slaughter had to occur on this long, windswept patch of sand. But all I heard in response was the cry of seagulls and the crashing of waves on the beach.

Later we went to the Normandy American Cemetery, which overlooks a different patch of Omaha Beach. There were rows and rows of perfectly aligned crosses with a few Stars of David mixed in; it was difficult to fully comprehend all the lives lost. There are the remains of 9,387 American soldiers there along with a memorial commemorating those missing in action. However, the most poignant part of the cemetery is the view from the middle, looking out to the sea. From there, one can see that the ground level gently slopes downwards, beckoning towards Omaha Beach below. This is to symbolize the American soldiers, rising from the sea to the beach to the level ground, and the whole scene gives off an eerie aura of incredible, unfathomable bravery. Looking out towards Omaha Beach, I briefly paused, and thought about the American soldiers, rising from the beach just as the graves seem to rise from the cliff overlooking the beach. Standing there, I somberly thought about those men who paid for freedom with their lives. It was a moment I will not soon forget.

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Our second day in Paris began with the traditional 9:30 start, and a clear plan ahead. We were granted essentially unlimited access to The Louvre, the most famous museum in the entire world. The sheer volume of art was a bit overwhelming, but the students certainly grasped the beauty and gravity of the artwork.  Understandably, we were drawn to the Mona Lisa, but other pieces by Rembrandt and van Eyck amongst others were very impressive.  It was also incredible how large some of these paintings were, making you truly value how impressive each intricate detail is. Lastly, the pyramid constructed by I.M Pei that sits in front of the museum was quite striking and a fascinating juxtaposition between modern architecture and the architecture of what used to be a former palace.

After hours of exploring the museum, students were granted some valuable free time to explore the city.  Many students visited landmarks such as Notre Dame Cathedral, Sainte Chappelle, Sacre Cour, Les Invalides, The Pantheon, and other destinations throughout downtown Paris

Unfortunately, our time in Paris could only last a couple of days, as we write this in the confines of a hotel room in Bayeux following a 3 hour bus ride.  We are incredibly excited to learn about the efforts of the United States during the war, as many of us have ancestors that valiantly served on the very beaches we will visit.

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Paris has started off with a bang, as within hours of our arrival by high speed train, we boarded a river cruise boat to see Paris via the Seine River.  Illuminated by the beautiful buildings around us amongst the City of Lights, the group was noticeably energized and awe-struck. The Eiffel Tower, glowing and golden, lit the sky, while the group shared laughs and conversation on the boat as it cruised under iconic bridges and zipped past landmarks such as Notre Dame Cathedral, The Louvre (which we will visit tomorrow), and the more modern features of Paris’ infrastructure.  As the tour wound to a close, a large contingent of the group decided to head to the Eiffel Tower to climb to higher views.  For a small charge, the group was able to reach the second level of the tower and capture breathtaking views of the French capital at night.  The aquatic adventure was certainly one of the more special moments of the trip, as we were able to bond further with our group members while simultaneously absorbing the sights of one the most beautiful cities in the world.

As the first morning kicked off in Paris, everybody was up and about at breakfast for a 9:30 departure for The Arc De Triomphe.  The Arc De Triomphe is a monument that Napoleon began building in 1806 to commemorate French Soldiers victories.  Ironically, following the fall of Napoleon, the French Army have not had many “triumphs” since.  It remains to be very much “the gateway” to modern history for the world.  Gabe explained the significance of this monument to us and made it come to life for us.  We then took a tunnel to the Arc.  We climbed a spiral staircase to the top and took in 360 degree views of the city in the daylight.  It let us get a different perspective of the city during the day with everything so clear to us.  With our final day in Paris nearing, we are looking forward to seeing the city in the night and continuing exploring all that Paris has to offer.

Our first full day in Paris came to a close with a pass to the Musee D’Orsay, home of the largest collection of impressionist and post-impressionist art in the world. The group was to roam freely throughout the museum and look at iconic artwork from the likes of Claude Monet, Vincent Van Gogh, Edouard Manet, Paul Cezanne, and many more of the most talented artists to ever live. A few of the most captivating pieces included Manet’s Olympia and The Divine Tragedy by Paul Chevanard.  An opportunity to visit one of the most famous art museums in the world was not something that the group took for granted. Our 48 hour pass to the D’Orsay and Louvre museums are yet another example of the incredible opportunities that this trip has offered us, and for that, we are immensely grateful.

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Our first day in Nuremberg presented us with a fair share of insight on the culture of the area, however today we were able to delve into its notorious history in order to gain clarity on the events that transpired. The city itself has a number of locations immortalizing and detailing the prominent  affairs that characterize Nuremberg’s involvement in the war, and one of these places, which was our first stop today, was the Fascination and Terror Exhibition.

The purpose for walking through the exhibition was for us to collect informative examples that revealed an answer to how the Nazis were able to rise to power and maintain that domination. Equipped with an audio guide and our journals, we made our way through the various displays, learning about the start of the Nazi dictatorship and the events that followed. The information that we gathered would later be compiled into a 2-3 minute solo presentation and group synthesis on what aspects we thought were most effective in helping the Nazi regime gain power.

Following our tour of the Fascination and Terror Exhibition, Gabe led us on an informed walk to lunch, making sure to take a path that would lead us to the Nuremberg rally grounds. Walking onto the grounds was surreal, as we imagined the scope of the area 80 years or so prior to that moment. The expansive stadium that held that rallies was enormous, and we made a point to climb to Hitler’s post, where he would have stood to address the people of Germany. Of course, it was only right to capture a picture of the group at such a prolific moment during our time in Nuremberg on that very spot.

Our wrap up of Nuremberg would not have been completely successful without a trip to the Nuremberg Trials museum as well. Equipped with audio guides yet again, we learned about the Nazis being tried and the extent of their punishments, some opting to kill themselves before their scheduled executions. This tour was brief and concluded with us sitting inside of the historic room where the trials took place. Sitting on the benches, the group listened to Andreas, our lovely tour guide from the Germanisches Museum, recount the basic information of the trial and how the room is still used for such activity today. It was the perfect summation to our time in Nuremberg and a solid cap to our discussion of how Hitler and the Nazis were able to establish their rule.

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Our trifecta of prominent World War II German cities would not be complete without the inevitable inclusion of Nuremberg. Although lacking the refined, quirky and intriguing charm of our most previous location, Cesky Krumlov, Nuremberg presents its visitors with a pleasant clash of bustling, wide city streets and hidden gems, including adoring alley roads lined with bridges with gorgeous arched brick work that is reminiscent of a different era. It is easy to be distracted by such detailing and intensive design, however, Gabe made sure to keep us on track by making our visit to the Germanisches National Museum top priority.

The museum is home to many undisturbed relics relating to German culture and is undeniably the most informed when it comes to art and culture in Germany, both present-day and dating back to ancient history. Our time at the museum was spent in the company of Andreas, a captivating guide who walked us through two different tours, the first focusing on 16th-19th century and the second narrowing in on the 20th, highlighting the impact of Nazi propaganda. The main idea that we were to get from the tours was how the Nazi regime was able to capitalize on the extent of its influence and become the force that it did. We were also asked the question “What is Germany?” and what constitutes a German citizen. These are ideas that we are to keep in mind as we move toward the relation of Nuremberg in other aspects of the war.

In the midst of the two tours we were able to immerse ourselves into the city of Nuremberg, visiting both the St. Lorenz and St. Sebald churches, two erect staples of Nuremberg history.  As many of the churches that we have been able to visit in this course, both are representative of the famous gothic architecture, with intricately symbolic stone carvings embellishing the walls and iridescent stain glass windows lining the structure for several feet. We learned that these buildings had been destroyed during the air raid in 1945 but have since been restored to resemble their former selves. Both remain as two of Nuremberg’s treasured mementos that serve as indications of the city’s resilience.

As with most of our days, this one ended in similar fashion with the group working up a severe appetite. Gabe, who is not one to disappoint, reserved us dinner at an amazing Italian restaurant where we were able to satiate our demanding bellies with a bevy of pasta, pizza and desert; to call it a feast would be an embarrassing understatement. 🙂

Our first day in Nuremberg presented us with amazing information about its history and culture, and we are looking forward to the rest of our time here.

Stay tuned to see what else Nuremberg has in store for us!

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Today marks our first full day in the beautiful city of Cesky Krumlov.  We arrived to our amazing hostel, The Krumlov House, late last night.  It is owned and operated by Carolyn Zukowski and her family, she is a native of Maine and has lived here for 20 years.  Calling this house a hostel does not do it justice, this living situation is by far the most homey we have had during our time in Europe.

We began our day with a walking tour through the small town, ending with a visit to The State Castle of Cesky Krumlov, one of the largest castle areas in central Europe.  This afternoon most of the students on our trip will be visiting The Eggenberg Brewery, founded locally here in Cesky Krumlov following the early traditions of brewing beer here in the 1500’s.  We will all be enjoying a bountiful feast tonight at a local restaurant that our tour guide frequents when he is in the area.

The small town charm of Cesky Krumlov combined with the undisturbed architecture dating back to the Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo periods makes for arguably many students favorite city during our time spent traveling Europe.

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And thus our time in Prague has come to an end. Throughout the day, we backtracked history by following the steps taken when planning the assassination Reinhard Heydrich, a high ranking Nazi officer during WWII, the man who formalized The Final Solution, and the future successor to Adolf Hitler.

At the time, Heydrich was the most powerful man in Czechoslovakia up until he was ambushed by a British paratooper. He was shot at and bombed while driving through Prague and died a few days after the assassination attempt due to infections and injuries.

It is always interesting to stand in the exact spot where history occurred, it helps us understand these events better when we are fully immersed in the scene. The enthusiam that Gabe brings to the table helps with our learning process as well.

The riveting story lasted for most of the morning and was followed by our departing from Prague. On our way to Cesky Krumlov, we stopped at the former village of Lidice and learned about the history that unraveled there during the war.

On orders given by Hitler, the village was to be completely destroyed. The destruction of the small Czechoslovakian village was due to the retaliation and anger following the death of Heydrich.

All men over the age of 15 were to be executed while all women and children were sent to Chelmno Concentration Camp. After the end of the war, only 153 women and 17 children returned. By the time of their return, there was no trace of Lidice.

The trip to Lidice was informative yet emotional on many accounts. Before today, none of us had even heard of this former village. This was an insightful and worthwhile stop on our way traveling out of Prague.

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Our third day in Prague was spent at the Theresienstadt Concentration Camp. Despite the darkened ambience of the day, visiting sites like this one are crucial to our course. Theresienstadt was used as a Jewish Ghetto as well as a concentration camp. The first camp we saw, Sachsenhausen, is a memorial and is meant for tourist visits, while Theresienstadt is in the middle of a dreary town and actually gives the feel for imprisonment. Walking through Theresienstadt was especially emotional because it felt like nothing had changed. Original furniture was still intact and all of the main buildings are still standing.

Our private tour guide helped us to gain a deeper understanding of what went on in this particular camp. The most emotional part from today was experiencing The Jewish prison cell. A little over 90 prisoners were in that cell at once, in the dark and cold and forced to stand all night. If you sat down, you would be shot. Our group only made up one third of that number and you could immediately sense the discomfort as soon as our guide shut the door. Experiences like this help us understand the emotions the prisoners felt everyday. It was mentioned that there was only one known escape from Theresienstadt where three prisoners escaped together and managed to stay free until the end of the war. Other than that, the only way out was on a train to Auschwitz.

The trip is about halfway over, and with so much knowledge already under our belts, we feel like there is so much more to learn.

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We kicked off our second day in Prague with another lovely breakfast at Hotel Fushion. Shortly afterwards, we began our walking tour of the New Town. Gabe enlightened us with how the Czech Republic came to be the nation as we know it today. He talked us through the different territories of Europe throughout the years and informed us that Prague used to be apart of a nation called Bohemia.

We stopped in front of the National History Museum and learned about how Communism was a great part of Prague’s history.

We stood on the square in front of the museum; the same square where many burned themselves alive because they would rather die a painful death than to live under a regime of Communism.

After a short coffee break, we traveled just down the road to the Old Town Square of Prague, which holds buildings as old as the 14th century. We saw the astronomical clock, which tells the time as well as the phases of the moon, rotation of the planets, and zodiac signs. Many tourists come from around the world to see the clock turn on the hour.

We regrouped after lunch and got the amazing opportunity to listen to a Holocaust survivor. Pavel Stransky was just around our age when WWII broke out. He met his future wife when he was only 17 and shared his remarkable story with us. Mr. Stransky is a survivor of Auschwitz Concentration Camp and was able to survive on the hope of love. He was imprisoned with the love of his life and only hoped that they would both make it out together, which they did. After hearing from someone else in the camp that, “The only way out of Auschwitz is through the chimney,” it’s unbelievable how Mr. Stranksy was able to persist on with the will to survive. We all learned a valuable life lesson from his story; you cannot live without love.

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