Vietnam study abroad 2015

Bargaining for an Animal Shelter

Throughout our time in Hoi An, I made a few observations that really struck me about the culture of Vietnam compared to the culture of America. First, I noticed that people are willing to bargain for anything, down to any price, if it means they will make a sale. Second, I saw the complete disregard and lack of compassion towards animals.

The shopping culture of Hoi An did not really surprise me. I knew when I came to Vietnam that I would be able to haggle and bargain almost everything I bought. I also knew that the storekeepers would try to rip me off, and if I didn’t bargain I would probably be paying way too much for a good that was not worth it. What I wasn’t expecting was for shopkeepers to bargain so low with me, or for them to chase me down the street when I walked away. This really struck me because it showed how important just making a single sale was to them. Whether they got the price they asked for or not, any sale was a sale, and it meant money. I also noticed that a lot of the shopkeepers would compliment me or engage me in a nice conversation in order to get me to pay. For example, I was walking in a market and a woman came up to me and asked about where I was from and complimented my hair and my skin, then offered to give me a manicure for $1. While I would have loved to pay for her service, I did not want to get a manicure on the side of the road. She even took me to her shop and showed me around and gave me her card, all in the hopes I would sit down for a $1 manicure. She also told me how her sister is a nail technician in the US, and she was so proud of her for that. I found it very interesting and also kind of sad that she was so proud of her sister for getting to be a nail technician in America, and that she was so desperate to paint my nails. The entire shopping situation in Hoi An was very humbling, and it made me realize I that bargaining a few extra dollars down isn’t really worth it because these people need the money more than I do.

Aside from the shopping, what absolutely struck me the hardest was the animal situation in Hoi An. We constantly saw dogs and cats sleeping on the side of the road, which is normal in a developing country but not normal to me. It broke my heart to see them so skinny and not being taken care of. There were two separate instances, though, that really put me over the edge, and I wish I could have done something to help. First, I saw a small puppy sitting behind a man on a motor bike, shaking and not strapped in. The dog easily could have just fallen off and been run over. Seeing the scared dog, and knowing its fate (eventually it will probably be eaten) made me upset. The dog is helpless and petrified, and the fact that people here do not treat them properly makes me sad. Next, I was in the market and saw a dying kitten on the side of the road. It could not have been more than 3 weeks old, and it was shaking and had red, crusty eyes. I knew that by the end of the day it would probably die, whether it was too sick or got hit by a motor bike. As I am sitting there, wishing I could help it, I see people just walking by, stepping over it, and not even caring that this little kitten is suffering. The entire situation made me rally think about humane treatment of animals, and it would be awesome if those values could be taught to the people of Vietnam, or if an animal shelter could be created. It is hard for me to understand that some people just don’t care about them, especially because they are so helpless and dependent on humans. 

Overall, Hoi An was my favorite stop of the trip. Aside from the sad animals, I loved how easy it was to shop and how I could get anything custom made just for me. The beachy feel and beautiful lanterns and bridges were amazing, and the food was so. Fresh and delicious. I would love to be able to come back to Vietnam and spend more time there. 

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Variances in Culture

From Hanoi to Halong Bay and back, from Hanoi to Hoi An, and from Hoi An to Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon, Elon University’s Business and Culture in Vietnam study abroad program has now traveled from the north (Hanoi) to the south (Ho Chi Minh City) of the country in less than three weeks. After capturing several ‘seizing’ moments from our time in Hanoi, I will now reflect upon our stay in Hoi An. Hoi An Ancient Town is located in the South Central Coast region of Vietnam and is home to approximately 120,000 inhabitants. Having traveled down the coast of the country from the north to the south, it is safe to say that there are vast differences (and similarities) between the cultures that exist from city to city and from province to province. With the opportunity to spend four days in Hoi An, there was plenty of time for observation and for insight as to why things are the way they are in this part of the country. During my stay, there were several of these observations that stuck out to me: First, the prominence of foreign influence throughout the city; second, the number of English-speaking indigenous people; and third, the role of women in the workforce within particular industries.

In Hanoi, one will observe certain aspects of French culture which still remain in the city in terms of architecture and cuisine. For example, some of the older buildings appear to have been constructed by the French during their occupation of Vietnam years ago, while baguettes (French bread) are very prominent in Vietnamese dishes. However, Hanoi is not comparable to Hoi An in terms of foreign influence. While walking the streets of Ancient Town, French culture is everywhere; one can eat dinner along the riverside and it feels as if he or she is sitting down looking out over the Seine. It is quite striking to see just how prominent French culture is within the architecture of Hoi An. Second, Hanoi had many Vietnamese locals who were capable of speaking broken English. Now when I say broken English, I mean that these folks understood words and phrases such as “water, how much, yes, and no”. Once again, this is extremely different from Hoi An. In Ancient Town, it was difficult to come across a street vendor or a shop owner who didn’t speak English. Although it wasn’t perfect, their English was profound when compared to those indigenous of the north. It does make sense as to why there are so many English-speaking Vietnamese in Hoi An because of the fact that tourism is the number one grossing industry in the area. Shopkeepers and street vendors alike are forced to understand and be able to communicate in English in order to sustain their livelihoods. Lastly, one of the observations that struck me the most was the role of women in the workforce in Hoi An. Women are typically seen sewing silk clothing, constructing Vietnamese lanterns made of bamboo with a silk covering, cooking in restaurants and on the streets, and etcetera. However, when it came to shop keepers and owners, many of them were women, but the interesting part about it is when a patron would begin bargaining with a woman shopkeeper, it was not out of the ordinary for her to go find a male employee or owner to confirm that she could make the sale at the bargained price. It was as if she had to “check-in” before making the sale at a discount. Along with the role of women in the workforce, these people are working extremely long hours for extreme minimal wages, but the interesting fact of the matter is that they always, and I mean always, had a smile on their face. These women would be performing such monotonous tasks but yet still took the time to look up from their work and greet us Americans with a smile. It was amazing to me how happy these people are working and performing, what appears to be, quite tedious tasks. One thing is certain, I will never complain about the manual labor I partake in back in America because it is nothing compared to what these people go through day in and day out. With a smile that is.

Now we are in the south, Ho Chi Minh City; we will be traveling as a group to the Mekong Delta to spend several days in a homestay before returning to Ho Chi Minh City for the final few days of our stay in Vietnam. It is safe to say that this experience has been a journey, but that journey is still to be continued. More to come.

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Future Economic Consistency?

Throughout our stay in Hoi An, and especially when we took a day trip into Da Nang, I was continuously shocked at the amount of construction for resorts. After our reflection period, it definitely made me realize that Vietnam’s exploding economy is extremely dependent on tourism. As Vo said, all of the retailers depend on tourists to make their money as it’s more or less seasonal based with peak season in the summer and winter breaks and slow season otherwise. I found it a little shocking because I feel like a lot of these resorts will cause the competition amongst the resorts to rise, which in turn doesn’t fill up all the hotel rooms. To further explain, say there are 5 resorts that consistently are completely booked, especially in peak tourism seasons, then what happens in 10 years when there are 20 resorts? All of these resorts cost millions of dollars and if they can’t be continuously occupied, then they lose money, thus limiting profits and spending habits that help out the average retailer at the end of the block. When looking out the window on our way to Da Nang, it became apparent that throughout the country, more so in more popular tourist areas, that the rich will only get richer and everyone else struggles to remain at the same social status. Along the fences of these blocked off grids for resorts to be built, were hundreds of homes housing citizens. What happens to them when the resorts are finished and restrict their access to the beaches they used for fishing, a main source of food and income? That became more apparent when driving through the city to the big pagoda, where we drove along this massive beach for tourists, but then at the corner of the cove, was the area that was allowed for fishing, which was clearly over crowded. Although Vietnam is economically growing at a rapid pace because of tourism, I’m intrigued to see if that will eventually be bad for them because it seems as if it’s a business sector that both domestic and foreign investors are diving into increasing the amount of competition with every investor.

Another thing that really struck me was the aggressiveness and persistence of the “promoters” or doors people at restaurants, and the foot vendors. I have worked in retail for more than 10 years and I know the first rule of thumb is to make your customers experience memorable and enjoyable so they come back. However in Hoi An, the amount of people that literally stop me in my tracks to try and get me to buy something with somewhat of a begging tone is out of control. From my perspective, imagine if I stood on the sidewalks of my town stopping people in their tracks forcing them into the store to buy something. To me, that doesn’t sound like I’m enhancing the quality of their experience so that customer is inclined to come back. This sort of lead to me to my next point, which is that most of their economy seemed to be retail based, and as someone who knows retail very well, success doesn’t last forever. When I looked around at the products sold in Hoi An, they were a dime a dozen meaning I could find the same exact product two doors down. So, similar to the resort topic, the level of competition amongst the retailers limits their ability for success. Also, none of the products they sell are commodities or something a person needs or expects to have. For example, I don’t need a piece of artwork to get by, but if I want one, I’ll buy it and that’s it, I don’t need a new piece of artwork every year. The same idea goes with the tailored suits, as say I buy 3 suits. Those 3 suits will last me a very long time. My point is that once enough tourists come here, the level of competition of lack of differences amongst resorts and products will cause the economy to come to a holt. Once someone buys a painting once, they keep it for a while, whereas stores like hardware stores can serve a large market population via construction, interior/exterior designing, and agriculture, on a consistent basis.Da Nang

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Action for the City — Hoi An

On first impression, Hoi An strikes a visitor as a beautiful town whose economy is built on tourism: lots of good restaurants and shops selling beautiful hand-made clothing, shoes, decorations. The residents and shop keepers engage visitors to the city: they demonstrate their flying toys, invite you to see their beautiful hand-made pop-up cards depicting Vietnam scenes, or just stand at the front of their shops and invite you to come in, look around, and buy their goods – irresistibly beautiful garments, bags, wall hangings, silk paintings and more.

But Hoi An also has a branch of an ambitious community action organization called “Action for the City,” an NGO headquartered in Hanoi whose mission is to “Bring people together for livable cities.” Our class had the good fortune to meet a young mover-shaker with Action for the City, Dang Quang Minh, who explained the mission of the NGO.

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Minh explaining the mission of Action for the City.

His passion and commitment came through clearly; he is dedicated to helping the country and the people he loves learn about sustainable city planning and organic farming so that the charm and beauty of Vietnam can be retained while it also hurdles forward into the twenty-first century.

Minh showed us three of the projects that he oversees in Hoi An:

He first took us to a new city park in Hoi An. A vacant plot of land possibly destined for a hotel or shops, this plot appealed to Minh and his team as an ideal location for something that Hoi An lacked: a city park for citizens to gather around with a playground for the kids. He and his organization met with city leaders and persuaded them that building a park on this site rather than another hotel would be a better use of precious land. The organization then raised the funds to help create the park and the playground. Minh said with some sadness that the organization did not have the funds to pay for regular maintenance of the park – but then pointed with pride to some middle-aged volunteers who were cleaning up the park, which is how the park is currently maintained.

Second, Minh took us to an even larger community project: a community center just outside of town, where a gathering center (a very nice building) and large playground are being built. Being kids ourselves, many of us played on the toys. One of the more challenging was a balancing bar, about ten yards long and increasingly unstable as you walked on it from start to finish. Nearly all of us tried to walk the full length of it (many tried several times); I think one of us made it to the end without falling. It was fun, and the project is great for the community.

Our final visit was to a new organic farm that Action for the City has created over the past year. The organization is dedicated to sustainable environmental practices, including urban planning and sustainable farming. Minh showed off with pride the abundant produce from the organic farm, but also said that one of the dilemmas facing Vietnam is the decline in the number of young people choosing to be farmers. As in the U.S. during the twentieth century, young people are moving to the cities where there are more opportunities and, if you are lucky, more money. Minh and his organization want to educate farmers on sustainable organic farming practices and want at the same time to develop measures to counteract the “farm flight.”

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Minh, farmer, and class at the organic farm in Hoi an.

Listening to Minh and seeing what he and his organization have accomplished over just the past year was, to me, very impressive. Cliché though it is, it is true that the future is in the hands of the young. It is inspiring to see this young man devote his talents and energy in such a committed fashion to helping his country build a better, more sustainable future.

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The Monetary Value of Time

Hoi An far exceeded my expectations. Its quaintness, charm, and affordability struck me most. After spending time in crowded Hanoi, it was nice to finally delve into the Vietnamese culture without feeling a sense of overwhelming chaos. Immediately after our arrival to the beautiful Ancient House Village Resort, we took a bike tour to explore the area. Although the population of Hoi An is far less than that of Hanoi, it did not make biking any easier. There were several times in which I saw my life flash before my eyes, but that was all part of both the fun and the experience. Following our tour we had free time to explore. Most of the group was eager to shop granted Hoi An is famously known for specialities such as custom tailoring and handmade souvenirs.

It wasn’t until my second and third day out that I not only realized, but witnessed physically and emotionally the unreasonable compensation Vietnamese workers receive for their work. While most naive individuals who have never traveled to Vietnam would counter that claim by saying their lack of work ethic has a lot to do with their minimal pay, that is far from the truth. I spent numerous hours in Bebe, the famous custom tailor in Hoi An, getting to know the manager and the workers. The two woman who I became quite close with told me that they only get paid $200 a month. The women who are stuck working in the back sewing the clothes receive even less and I consider their work far more grueling. The seamstresses and sales peoples’ work day usually starts at 8am and lasts until 9pm. That comes to $6.6o a day or $0.51 an hour. They struggle working long hours on their feet trying to make a sale. The average income of these individuals hit me the hardest. My jaw dropped in shock. I witnessed how hard they worked and how much they cared about their customers’ satisfaction. I ended up tipping the woman $5. She broke out in tears and started jumping out and down with joy as she hugged me. Seeing her work and then her reaction to my tip was so profound. A $5 tip in America would have been considered rude.

My experience at Bebe got me thinking about the disparity between the time and work put forth and the compensation received. So, I later stopped at an elderly woman on the street selling three dimensional cards. I asked her how much they were and how long it took to make one. She replied by saying the easier ones take an hour and a half and the more intricate ones can take up to two hours or more. She was selling the simple ones for about $1 and the more complicated ones for $3. It was then that I realized that she was lowly valuing her time, not because she wanted to, but because she had to.

I started to feel guilty for all the bargaining I had done. These street vendors break their back trying to make cheap sales from sun rise to sun down. Five dollars to me is nothing, but to the Vietnamese whose livelihood depends on tourists, five dollars is everything. Bargaining is not prominent in the American culture like it is in the Vietnamese culture, which is shocking considering the need to make a living. No one in America would work from 8am to 9pm making $6 a day. The work ethic the Vietnamese have is unmatched. The idea of retiring does not seem to be an option here as it is in America. While it seems the Vietnamese workforce, especially vendors and crafters, place a low monetary value on their time, it’s only because they know it’s all they will realistically receive.

 

A low paid silk factory employee hand sewing a picture that takes a month to complete

A low paid silk factory employee hand sewing a photograph that will take almost a month to complete

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Money Doesn’t Buy Happiness

In America there’s definitely a prevalent belief in the saying “money buys happiness.” In the past, I have never agreed nor disagreed with this statement but now that I am in Vietnam and experiencing a different culture, I can strongly say that I do disagree with this statement for I believe that money absolutely cannot buy happiness, in fact maybe money even distracts from happiness.

While biking the streets of Hoi An, looking to my left and right all I could see was small, compact villages living such poor lifestyles from what I am accustom to seeing at home, in America. These families’ houses consist of dirt as the ground and fire as the source of heat. They wear rags for clothing and often people walk around and work with no shoes entirely. It has been very evident throughout our travels in Hoi An that majority of these people are living off of very little to no income. And yet when you bike past them they greet you with big, warm waves and smiles as they continue on with their work. You see kids playing games in the sand and running around with no toys, and yet they look like they are having more fun than kids in America do who have all their complex electric toys.

I think I came to this realization that money doesn’t buy happiness when we went on the coconut boat rides the other day and the native people paddling the boats were so silly and literally seemed more happy than most Americans I interact with on a daily basis. No, they aren’t racking in money like those who work on Wall Street, but at least they laugh and look like they’re genuinely satisfied and happy with the way their lives are going. Living in Fairfield County in Connecticut all my life, I know a lot of people who lead extravagant lifestyles but I honestly can say that a lot of these individuals always seem so stressed to the point you barely catch them smiling or laughing. I think it’s refreshing coming here to Vietnam, seeing such poverty, and seeing these same people who are living with nothing appear happy as could be with the biggest smiles on their faces. Experiencing this has definitely made me realize I need to take a step back sometimes to appreciate how much I have and not let the expectation and stress to make money distract me from the ultimate goal, happiness.

 

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Look how happy this guy looks… He was laughing and smiling the entire duration of our boat ride!!

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So Beautiful, Yet So Cheap

On the afternoon of 1/8/2015 we visited the Quang Vinh ceramic factory in Bat Trang, near Hanoi. We learned how the workers used molds to mass-produce certain pottery designs. And we all observed the difficult working conditions inside the factory. The air we breathed was surely unhealthy; the work was clearly back-breaking, required intense focus, and obviously monotonous. We all agreed that you would have to pay us a fortune to entice us to work there, and even then we would probably quit within the week.

After visiting the factory we went inside the adjacent store where we could buy the finished products. We were amazed by both the beauty and the great deals! I bought several hand-painted vases, each costing no more than $4. If I had purchased an American-made vase of similar quality in Seagrove, NC (a hotbed of American pottery); I likely would have paid a price 10 times that. Why? Both places have great artists, great clay, and similar knowledge of ceramic production processes. The difference must come down to labor. The vase I paid $4 for was made by Vietnamese workers; the equivalent vase I might have purchased in Seagrove for $40 was made by American workers. I don’t know the actual wages for either the Vietnamese or the American pottery workers, but I do know that in 2013 the real per-capita GDP (in international $) for Vietnam was 5,126 while the corresponding measure for the U.S. was 51,471.

These two numbers are reliable estimates of the average incomes in the two societies. Why do Americans ceramic workers likely earn more, on average, than the Vietnamese ceramic workers? Is it because American workers have better skills, or are willing to work harder, than the Vietnamese? From what I can see, probably not; perhaps the difference comes down to choice. A worker in the Bat Trang ceramic factory is there because she has no better choice. No American would work there at Vietnamese wages. The typical American has many more choices, often times including the choice of not working.

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That time I went to Nam. Blog 1

A blistering rush runs through my mind and body as I break the seal- as I do something new for the first time. Vietnam is just a roller coaster of firsts and I am going to keep riding until I’m kicked off for closing.

I’m a soul who rarely gets embarrassed, and so its hard to put me outside of my comfort zone- and that is initially why I signed up for Vietnam, I wanted to truly challenge myself with something I knew (or thought) I would heavily struggle with.

I’m just a boy, at the ripe age of 19, who decided to go to Asia, for the first time, with no friends, no knowledge or strong interest in the food or culture, and new knowledge of allergies to all kinds of seafood (including shellfish.)

In background knowledge: I am in Vietnam, traveling from North to South with 25 other students from my University to study business and the economy of Vietnam. It is a cultural study led by two advisors from my school and a travel guide.

My knees shook as I stumbled around the streets of Hanoi for the first time. My body shook with ache feeling I had made a regretful decision, and my mind pounded with the knowledge that there was absolutely no turning back now. I was a minority in a city that didn’t seem to have anything familiar to my home. The driving and streets were in no way an organized process nor did they follow any sort of structure. Even the sidewalk wasn’t sacred ground, people drove on it as well. Rising in the corners of the streets were unfamiliar smells, unwanted grabbing and questioning and overall utter confusion and dismay. But as I began to breath and remind myself why I was there, a slight net of peace went over me.

I’ve always saw study abroad as an escape to go and travel fascinating places, party all the time, and have very little cares about the real world. Though, it soon became clear that Vietnam was not on my plate to be a party, I was placed here to educate myself. To see how other cultures function, and to see what its like to live in the majority of the world’s income and setting, rather than being a privileged white male in America. To put on a man’s shoes and walk his path for a day you could say.

There is so much more to say and so much to come, such as the time in which I traveled to beautiful Buddhist temples and land marks and really found myself and peace until I discovered that I had taken too long and was soon enough to be only with me, myself, and I (in the middle of no where Vietnam, with no access of communication to anyone else.) Or the time I saw Ho Chi Minh’s dead body. Or, not to mention my new appreciation for every working man and my constant lookout for the topics of my paper, such as prostitution, woman’s rights and gay’s rights. But that is all to come in dear sweet and soon time. This was to stand as an introduction to an…eclectic and memorable journey that is ‘that time I went to Nam.’

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My Moments in Hanoi

As I prepared for the trip to Vietnam over winter break, I was also reflecting on 2014 in preparation for the New Year to create my resolutions. In doing so, one of my main goals for 2015 was to be more happy through living in the moment. I was so excited to be starting off the new year with this trip to Vietnam and this week has been full of happy moments in a variety of forms.

Our first excursion was to visit Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. Our bus pulled up along side buses carrying huge groups of Vietnamese children visiting the Mausoleum for a school field trip. As each group of children passed by, their eyes lit up and every child was waving and screaming “hello!”. They each repeated over and over as if they were saying it to each person in the group individually and, occasionally, a child would get up the courage to yell “What’s you’re name?” or “How are you?”. It brought such a smile to my face to see the reactions of all these children and I wanted to meet and talk to each one! Never in my life had I felt like more of a celebrity. To see the awe and excitement these children experienced seeing us brought me back to the innocence of childhood.

 

On Saturday we had a free day and a large group of us planned an excursion to the Bai Dinh Pagoda, the location of the largest pagoda and Buddha statue in Vietnam. Just being here surrounded by the mountain scenery and fresh air immediately created a sense of serenity peace. Being here, a place so scared and holy to so many people, made me just feel extremely blessed and happy to be alive. As I watched women pray at the statues it just reminded me of all I had to be thankful for that allowed me to be standing there in that moment.

Sunday, we traveled to Halong Bay which was one of the most breathtaking places that I have ever been. The day we arrived was overcast and rainy but we pushed through the bad weather and took small boats out to explore the fishing village. Even in the pouring rain, the whole place was so tremendous and beautiful. To reflect on the history of the place and how many millions of years went by in which nature was slowly creating the natural wonder is so humbling. The next morning as we all sat on the sun deck with the sun warming our faces and the sea air all around us I felt pure bliss that is so rare. It was a moment that can’t be recreated with material things; in that moment nothing else mattered. It was the perfect end to the first week of this amazing journey. I can’t wait to experience all the happiness that this next week will bring exploring the city of Hoi An.

 

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A Nation of Curiosity

Upon informing my relatives that I would traveling to Vietnam for my study abroad experience, I received very mixed reactions. Many people were stuck in the mindset that was common during the Vietnam war and believed that I would face opposition or even danger as an American in this nation. However, the experiences I have had thus far could not be more different. In talking to some of the locals, whether those on the streets, in our hotel, or even our tour guide Vu, it has become apparent that Americans are incredibly well received here and nearly everyone has a looming curiosity regarding our culture. While I expected to come to Vietnam as the student, there have already been many instances in which I have served as a teacher, helping share American traditions and the different aspects of life in the States to curious locals. However, every time that I asked a local if they had travelled to America, their answer was no.

Economically, the nation is very far behind the United States and other first world countries, so travel, a luxury we sometimes take for granted, is not as readily available for them. Upon asking Vu of the most common travel destinations for the Vietnamese, he informed us that the vast majority of travel occurs within the nation. People don’t have the financial capabilities to afford international travel and many don’t speak the language of surrounding nations, making communication abroad nearly impossible. Therefore, nearly all of the information they receive regarding life in the rest of the world is accessed through conversation with foreigners. In America, this is a very strange concept. In order to learn about other cultures, Americans will choose to travel or study internationally, and they can experience different areas of the world first-hand. Since the Vietnamese are not often granted this opportunity, they willingly accept the presence of foreigners and view it as a culturally enriching, learning experience. This seemed to differ substantially from American views of foreigners, who often face opposition in our nation. It was also obvious that a vast number of Vietnamese speak English rather fluently. It seemed like nearly everyone was willing to do whatever it was they could to soak in a little culture from tourists.
Through my experience talking to locals, I became more aware of the luxuries we take for granted in the United States. While I have always been grateful for my opportunity to travel, it is easier now to recognize the intellectual benefit of these experiences, and I have become more appreciative of my time abroad.
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